The Odyssey: Searching for the Friday Bakery

I have some kind of a sick interest for finding hole-in-the wall, kitschy, “local” places. I am still on the search for the coziest cafe in Philadelphia with the best coffee. When I was in Europe, I dragged my friend down alleys to find what was supposed to be a historic speakeasy. So when I heard about a bakery in Dunedin, New Zealand that was a bit out of town, in a small shop only open once a week, you bet I was there.

I set my alarm for 6:20 am, which was slightly unheard of during my excessively lazy semester abroad. But I bounded out of bed nevertheless, Google Maps directions in hand and sneakers on my feet, ready for a little everyday adventure, the walk up the hill out of town to snag some killer pastries and bread.

Knowing my embarrassingly terrible sense of direction, with my BFF GoogleMaps, I was prepared (or so I thought)
Knowing my embarrassingly terrible sense of direction, with my BFF GoogleMaps, I was prepared (or so I thought)

My Kiwi Host had told me about the Highgate Bridge Bakery, better known as the Friday Bakery, a beloved Dunedin spot. Chef Jim Byars was born in the town I’m studying in, and then moved to London to work under Albert Roux at Le Gavroche. 17 years ago, he made his way back to the South Island and began selling his baked goods from the boot (i.e. for you Americans, trunk) of his car. Byar and his associate chefs work all week preparing the food and are open only on Friday mornings, from 7:30 until the food is gone. He prepares over 100 kg (210 lb) of croissant dough and puff pastry each week, and starts his stocks from scratch. The hole-in-the-wall shop offers not only croissants, pain au chocolat, tarts, pies and baguettes, but also braised meats and soups.

The sun was rising over the city as I made my way up the hill to the Dunedin suburb of Roslyn, home of the Friday Bakery
The sun was rising over the city as I made my way up the hill to the Dunedin suburb of Roslyn, home of the Friday Bakery

I had looked it up online and mapped out the almost-hour walk to the bakery, which is situated in a surburb of the city simply “up the hill.” My steps were springy and I could not wipe the smile off my face as I watched the city wake up below me. Perhaps I was overconfident, however, as about 15 minutes in, I realized I the next turn I was supposed to make was simply not there. I asked a the one other guy on the street before 7am if he knew where Highgate was. He responded that “I think I know, but don’t want to lead you astray. Why don’t you come inside and we can look up directions on my laptop?” Knowing that this could either be one of those moments where I turn into the sad story of the study abroad student who gets raped and murdered, or could be a perfectly lovely gentlemanly act of kindness, I opted for the latter and followed him inside. My gut was right, and I headed out with new directions.

The evasive Highgate Bridge Bakery
The evasive Highgate Bridge Bakery

Either I am a big fat idiot or our non-violent Good Samaritan was wrong, because I was quickly lost again, walking up and down the hill looking for the right turn. Another passerby told me I actually wasn’t that far from the place. With the help of her more accurate directions, 30 minutes later, I spotted girls running from the bakery with white bags spotted with grease like only good pastries can do. A few steps later, the sweet scent of fresh baked goods filled my nose and the buzz of locals conversing as they pick up their bread and Boeuf en Croute for the weekend floated into my ears. Serpentine queues weave through the store as people pay in cash for their goodies before starting their day.

Apple danishes and apricot tartes are just some of the myriad offerings
Apple danishes and apricot tartes are just some of the myriad offerings

I slipped a croissant, an almond croissant, a baguette and a container of small, crispy chocolate chip cookies into my bag before making my way out and the journey back home. It took all my will power not to dig into the croissant right then, but I waited to pick up a coffee and find a relaxed spot to see if this little bakery was all it was cracked up to be. Long story short: it was.

Enjoying the best croissant of my life with a picturesque view in the background (NZ has no shortage of these).
Enjoying the best croissant of my life with a picturesque view in the background (NZ has no shortage of these).

Buttery. Flaky. Crunchy. Just the perfect width of sliced almonds on top. I was pleasantly surprised to find the croissant was filled with the most delicious almond cream.

Taking in the quiet morning with ducks keeping me company, also in the market for a yummy breakfast, I couldn’t help but smile. This is what I love about traveling– getting lost, having my faith in the kindness of strangers restored, those kitschy local spots.

And of course, delicious food.

If you happen to be in Dunedin on a Friday morning, the early wakeup and walk up the hill is beyond worth it for the everyday adventure and for what may be the best croissant of your life.

— Grace Jemison

One thought on “The Odyssey: Searching for the Friday Bakery

  1. I was looking up the Friday Shop (which is literally 5 minutes walk from where I live, though I’m too lazy to get up early enough to ever go there), and came across this page.

    Thought I’d shed some light on why you got lost – the Google map is accurate but fails to mention that the ‘slight left’ in step 4 is actually a steep walking path known as the Bullock Track. You must have ended up walking up Leith Valley instead, which is entirely the wrong direction.. So well done on making it to the shop before everything sold out!

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