a.bar: Not Your Average Raw Bar
Opening last July in Rittenhouse Square, a.bar restaurant quickly became a culinary sensation within the Philadelphia foodie scene, opening its doors as one of the tastiest raw oyster bars in the city. Located in the heart of Center City at the corner of 18th and Walnut Streets, a.bar serves up a superb selection of East and West Coast oysters and wine and spirit offerings.
This past month, Chef/owner Eli Kulp along with Ellen Yin, owner of Fork and High Street on Market, collaborated to introduce a new menu for a.bar, expanding with seafood-focused small plates that assault the senses and venture patrons into the new and unknown. Intriguing, complex cocktails and a diverse wine selection are designed to harmonize with the seafood and season.
Yin explained the reason for introducing a new menu had much to do with their vision – to stand apart from other raw bars. “We wanted to be different, to become a globally-inspired raw bar. Every country has a specialty in some form or another when it comes to raw bars. We wanted to bring these foods and flavors together and share it with all.”
The restaurant celebrated its new menu this past week, complete with delicious samplings and character drinks. Penn Appétit was treated to this delightfully new bill of fare.
a.bar features an intimate 42-seat raw bar with dark wooden tables and chairs surrounding the exterior of the room. Large windows provide the perfect opportunity to people-watch and view the happenings in Rittenhouse Square. We suggest sitting at the counter; the seating gives you a firsthand glimpse of the chefs and bartenders working their magic.
The meal began with a chilled platter of assorted, fresh raw seafood that tantalizes the eye and belly. Fresh, shucked oysters, cherrystone clams and a solo crab claw lifted the evening with their clean, succulent zest and fresh aroma. For the daring, a crimson house mignonette for dipping added a biting tang. The scallop ceviche was particularly light, served with diced, raw scallops and finely, chopped celery. The dish finished with a mild bitterness from shaved grapefruit and yuzu. Equally as delightful with notes of nutty and sour, the sea bass ceviche featured small chunks of sea bass covered in a coconut and lime sauce and mixed with tamarind and crispy hominy, adding a nice contrasting crunch to the soup-like delicacy.
The meal was accompanied with a crisp Txakolina (Uriondo, Basque Country, Spain). Acidic and faintly fizzy, this dry white cleansed the taste buds between samplings.
Chef Jon Nodler expressed his ingenuity with his presentation of the fluke tiradito. Ribbon-cut, tender fluke swam in a light marinade of almond milk and olive oil while leaflets of green coriander gave the dish a distinct herbaceous note. Thin strips of pickled peppers curled around the fish added a surprising bite to the spectrum of flavors. This is one plate meant to be enjoyed slowly for its simplicity and outrageous flavor.
Next came a.bar’s new adaptation of the spicy tuna roll. The appearance along made one lick their chops. Fresh cut, gently grilled albacore tuna tossed with diced nori and puffed rice, drizzled with sriracha mayo and sunflower oil. Wonderfully complex, the savory meal is faintly smoky and nutty with a discreet burn at the end.
This round of samples was complemented by a.bar’s popular improved cocktail. Composed of your choice of liquor (in this case Laphroaig Scotch), Peychaud’s Bitters and absinthe rinse, the drink was shockingly bold and complex with a hint of charred smokiness from the scotch. A radiant ruby red, this drink is not for the faint of heart.
The soft shelled shrimp brings the fire for those looking for a little spice in their life. Coated with cumin and black pepper, these lightly crunchy crustaceans are served to be devoured whole. The “devil oil” dipping sauce adds a new level of heat that even the devil would tip his hat to. Made of sambal oelek, cumin, lime juice and chili peppers, this savory, potent sidekick will awaken all five of your senses!
Next arrived the clam on toast – minced clam, parsley, oregano and a grilled cherry tomato lying on a warm bed of housemade sourdough bread drizzled in chili oil. Chef Nodler’s culinary skills are evident as this bite-sized dish is exceptionally balanced in both taste and texture.
Not your average cocktail and a favorite among loyal patrons is the parkside – a smooth, frothy concoction of sugar cane rum, celery, falernum, lemon, mint and salt. Intensely herbal with sour and sweet tones, this refreshing drink can pack a wallop of a punch.
For a summer menu, the marinated squash salad was a perfect choice. Bathed in lemon vinaigrette, wedge-shaped squash slices were sponges of sharp citric flavor with seed crackers providing an earthy, nutty counterbalance to the acidity. Dollops of rich, creamy ricotta topped the salad making it a vegetarian’s delight!
Nothing says comfort food like a good ole’ fashioned a.burger. This thick, meaty mountain of a sandwich was served medium rare and jam packed with flavor. Lancaster Swiss, bacon-red onion jam and pickles blanketed the juicy meat between soft sesame-seed buns. Smoldering hot, crispy potato fries were the perfect companion to this Everest of burgers.
The pretzel sundae provided the perfect sugar rush needed to awaken from the food-induced coma of deliciousness. Caramel pretzel ice cream is drenched with rich chocolate syrup and fluffy cream while crumbles of peanut brittle accentuated the sweet and savory flavor. Each bite thoroughly refreshing, it leaves you clamoring for more.
There were countless times when licking the plate clean was almost unconditional. a.bar has certainly achieved its vision of global fusion through its new menu but has also creatively incorporated traditional, comfort foods with a twist for those who need to take baby steps before leaping both feet into tasting the new, the bold and unknown. The menu is simple yet striking – flavor-packed dishes using nothing but the freshest, locally-sourced ingredients. Each meal, each recipe is perfectly balanced with flavor allowing one to truly recognize each ingredient as it melds onto your palette. Move this place to your top of the list to visit!
-Kevin Thurwanger