A Taste of Germany at Devil’s Den

We walk into Devil’s Den, and immediately forget the bitter cold weather outside. Exposed brick walls, dim lighting, and a crackling fire evoke feelings of calm, warmth, and coziness. The walls are dotted with colorful signs for Belgian and German beers, and the chairs and tables are made of smooth, dark brown wood.

We’re at Devil’s Den to sample Chef de Cuisine Matthew Daggett’s new homemade sausages. He recently returned from two weeks in Europe studying German sausage-making techniques, and Executive Chef Paul Trowbridge, after sampling his creations, decided they would make a perfect complement on the menu to Devil’s Den’s craft beer.

We expected to only sample a sausage or two, yet were treated to a generous 10-course sampling menu. Some dishes were fair, some were fantastic, and we left thoroughly impressed with Daggett’s abilities.

First was deviled eggs with orange zest and kimchi. The color contrasts created a beautiful presentation, and the combination of flavors was rich and refreshing.

Next was the pulled pork sandwich with pickled red onion, all piled on a toasted bun. The pork was tender and slightly tangy, but was overpowered by the sharp flavor of the onion. The toasted bun balanced out the softness of the pork with the crunch of the onion.

The Boudin Blanc came next: white pudding sausage made from chicken, veal, and pork. Unlike the more traditional hearty and chewy sausages, it was unbelievably light with a hint of maple-like sweetness and a spicy kick at the end. The crisp brown casing edges added another element with a contrasting texture.

Following this came crab tots: tater tots with crabmeat topped with a cheddar beer sauce. The dish was soft and creamy, but a bit rich and overpowering for our tastes. The sauce also left a bitter aftertaste in our mouths.

Next was the pork belly sausage. This tasted as expected: thick, savory, and chewy. We personally preferred the delicate boudin blanc in comparison, but people seeking a heartier sausage will prefer this option.

Our sixth dish was a short rib ravioli with carmelized ciopollinni and pearl onion consommé, watercress, and crème de Dijon. It was salty and savory, with chewy meat and a slightly crunchy pasta noodle. The soft, thin texture of the short rib reminded us of brisket, giving us the overall impression of brisket-stuffed ravioli.

Seventh was lamb sausage with chili oil. This was one of our favorites, melting in our mouths. The sausage was juicy with a muted heat at the end. It was somehow simultaneously hearty and light, and was immensely satisfying. This sausage was one of the finest demonstrations of Daggett’s craft.

Eighth was easily another of our top picks from Devil’s Den. We enjoyed bacon-wrapped dates with ricotta and balsamic vinegar. The soft, gooey roasted date, crunchy and savory bacon, creamy and tangy ricotta, and acidic balsamic vinegar created an unexpectedly rich combination. We learned this is inspired by the British dish “Devils’ on Horseback,” so the name is fitting for Devil’s Den.

Ninth was a seared sea scallop in parsnip apple puree, and topped with warm mushrooms tossed in truffle oil. The colorful presentation was appealing, but the foamy puree was a bit mild for our taste- we would have preferred something stronger, like sweet potato.  Save for the hard crust of the scallop, everything was incredibly soft, and would have blended into a salty, truffle-infused mush without it. However, the use of truffle oil was definitely appreciated.

The meal ended on a sweet note with a small brownie topped with whipped cream. We could immediately tell it was homemade based on how rich, fudgy and chocolaty it was, and was the perfect ending to our salty, hearty feast.

Penn Appétit Picks: Boudin Blanc, Bacon Wrapped Dates, Lamb Sausage

— Farrel Levenson and Chase Matecun