James Beard Dinner with Chef Eli Kulp
This past week, Philadelphia Chef Eli Kulp ventured north to cook dinner at the Beard House in New York City.
The James Beard Foundation–world renowned for its annual culinary awards–invites exceptional chefs from around to world to cook dinner each night at James Beard’s historic home in Greenwich Village.
Besides acting as a prestigious “right of passage” for up-and-coming chefs, an invitation to cook at the Beard House is an opportunity for a chef to share their culinary ethos–the thought and meaning that drives their style of cooking.
Chef Kulp took this opportunity and ran with it–delivering a spectacular rendition of his “our terroir” menu from Fork–which creates a strong sense of place by reflecting Philadelphia’s culture and foodways through locally grown meats and produce.
We arrived at the Beard House hungry and ready to eat. As we mingled in the house’s packed foyer, Chef Kulp and his team staved off our hunger with plate after plate of creative hors d’oeuvres.
Reception-goers eagerly picked at plates of sweet dried carrots coated in crunchy seaweed and black bread.
We particularly enjoyed the cured fluke on a buckwheat crisp. It was lemony and pungent, but well-balanced by the earthy buckwheat.
The puffed pretzels with homemade cheez whiz–a not so subtle nod to Philadelphia–were a crowd favorite. We watched pastry chef Samantha Kincaid stuff dozens of the puffy morsels back in the kitchen. Elena didn’t realize how much cheez was in the pretzel and narrowly missed being oozed upon.
There were also crispy chicken skins sandwiching fermented almond “cheese”, though we found the skins a tad too salty for our taste.
Finally, it was time to head up to the dining room. We were seated at a table with Ellen Yin, the owner of Fork Restaurant Group, Alexandra Stafford of the amazing food blog Alexandra’s Kitchen, and an executive representing a.kitchen in Rittenhouse.
Our first course was a live clam served on the half shell. Juicy strips of surf clam were mixed with a refreshing combination of lemon juice, olive oil, and apple and were punctuated by the crunch of shaved radishes. A dash of horseradish lent a gentle burn to the back of the throat which contrasted nicely with the coolness of the rest of the dish.
The second course, was a venison carpaccio inspired by The Pine Barrens region of New Jersey (tying it back to our “terroir”). It featured a thin strip of scarlet raw venison resting on a pine nut puree and drizzled with pine tea vinegar, accompanied by charred cabbage, dried pine shoots, and a single purple kale chip. The venison was surprisingly buttery and rich and it was balanced by the pine tea vinegar and the charred cabbage. Elena really enjoyed the charred cabbage, and later chef Eli joked that cabbage should be gracing people’s grills come the fourth of July, forget burgers!
Next came the bread course, presented in thickly sliced pieces on a mini cutting board. The bread was vollkornbrot, a hearty German loaf made from 100% local rye and spelt flours with a crisp crust and a coating of sunflower seeds on top. It was served with cultured butter streaked with spruce ash. Each slice was so delicious that we couldn’t help but reach for seconds. Unwise considering the number of courses to come? Probably. Worth it? Absolutely.
Our next course was perhaps the most intriguing of the night, a “risotto” made from braised sunflower seeds instead of rice. The risotto was topped with thinly shaved white button mushrooms from Kennet Square PA, which cooked in the steam of the warm sunflower seeds as you ate. The risotto’s nuttiness was accentuated by a fantastic local Pecorino cheese, and the whole thing was topped with sunflower oil. To render them rice-like, the seeds were braised in sunflower milk until they were softened, yet still more toothsome than rice.
But the main course is where Chef Kulp was really able to shine. Like a celebrity makeover artist transforming a dorky English nerd into the prom queen, Kulp transformed the Philadelphia roast pork sandwich into a culinary masterpiece a world apart. Instead of the usual shredded pork topped with blanched broccoli rabe, Chef Kulp drizzled a thick slice of succulent roasted pork loin and a tender grilled pork rib with a savory provolone jus. He replicated the sandwich’s sharpness with crisp shreds of dried sharp provolone and slightly-funky branches of fermented broccoli rabe.
And finally, dessert. Pastry chef Samantha Kincaid led the way with an unforgettable sunchoke custard. A crunchy black walnut brittle, minuscule pieces of apple poached in hopped cider, and a thinly shaved leaf of sunchoke all sat atop a nutty layer of custard made from whole roasted sunchokes and local maple syrup.
From the first bite of the Atlantic surf clam to the final spoonful of sunchoke custard, each course of Chef Kulp’s meal was an incredible example of how food reflects our terroir. After the final plates were cleared away, the chef and his team entered the dining room to answer questions about the meal. After an appreciative applause from a very satisfied audience, Chef Kulp reminded us what he was trying to convey with this meal– how food can convey the rich history and food ways of a region. If the Deleware Valley could speak, we’re certain it would have thanked him.
To experience Chef Kulp’s “our terroir” menu here in Philadelphia, make a reservation at Fork, or taste similarly inspired dishes at High Street on Market or a.kitchen.
-Chase Matecun and Elena Crouch