There’s Somethin’ About Sampan
Located in the heart of Midtown Village, Sampan elevates Asian flavors to new levels thanks to the creative direction of Chef Michael Schulson. The aesthetic wood paneling composing the restaurant’s exterior facade only hints at the artistic experience guests have inside. Fellow staff members had shared their enthusiasm for Sampan before, and we couldn’t wait to dig in.
The interior is urban-chic, the walls awash with glowing purple light and tree silhouettes inspired by Chinese brush paintings.
Guests can elect to sit at the general dining room tables or hop into a seat at the open-kitchen bar seating. Another dining area option is Graffiti Bar, a secluded all-weather patio located at the back of the restaurant (it’s also an excellent location to take advantage of the happy hour menu!).
The menu is organized into various sections with an emphasis on sharing multiple dishes. The $45 tasting menu (7 plates plus soft serve) is a tempting option.
The bite-sized Edamame Dumplings, topped with pea shoots and bathed in a rich sake broth, burst with soft, comforting flavors. The fragrant essence of truffle complemented the mild soybean puree within the miniature pillows.
One of the highlights of the evening, the Korean BBQ Beef Satay was moist and tender, thoroughly imbued with the savory marinade. The skewered short ribs boasted a fiery kimchee topping, with sharp ginger to numb the heat.
Though not as crispy as we expected, the Crispy Rock Shrimp featured a nicely soft interior. Pickled radish, citrusy yuzu, and softly-spicy chili aioli rounded out the dish.
A DIY dish, the Peking Duck arrived in all its separate constituents. The entire process–smearing the piping-hot scallion bun with hoisin sauce, then gently layering the slices of duck and pert cucumber–made us hungrier with each step. This was no one-note dish; each component made itself known and harmonized together well.
Filled to the brim, this massive bowl of shrimp pad thai came packed with tofu, egg, and peanut. It could have easily fed an army; it certainly satisfied us.
Crispy and soaked in fish sauce, the brussel sprouts added a tasty crunch to the meal that contrasted the softer textures of the pad thai and the Peking duck. Puffed rice and chili added to texture and flavor differences.
For dessert, we licked up adorable miniature soft serve ice cream cones artistically perched in a metal stand. The caramel popcorn contained subtle hints of buttery popcorn, while the chocolate Oreo carried rich tones of chocolate mixed in with milk’s favorite partner.
Sampan’s fare is a far cry from the traditional bites you might find in Chinatown nearby, but that’s a good thing: the restaurant holds its own as a unique interpretation on Asian cuisine.
— Katie Behrman & Nicole Woon