Sampan: Reviving Asian Fusion
During a rare lull in the midterm madness, I ventured into the city to Michael Schulson’s Sampan, a pan-Asian shared-plates restaurant on 13th and Sansom. This bustling restaurant attracts families, co-workers, and college students alike with its inviting and intimate atmosphere, ideal for casual mixing and conversation. Once inside, the low-lighting, mixed timber and metal textures, and stunning black-lit wall graphic create a very hip and urban vibe.
I chose to go with the Chef’s Tasting Menu, a dinner option that lets you choose 7 selections (2 Small, 1 Satay, 1 Cold & Hot, 1 Meat, 1 Fish, and 1 Side).
To start off, my friends and I chose the Edamame Dumpling with Truffle and Pea Shoot, served in a Sake Broth. I had high expectations for this dish, and though it was thoroughly enjoyable, I think the flavors would be better suited for a palate cleanser or transition dish. I would recommend a different starter to set the right tone for the rest of the meal.
For our second starter, we chose the Lobster Ceviche, a fresh seafood medley made with tomato, mint oil, and chive. This light and tasty dish served in individual spoons was fun to pass around the table, not to mention – absolutely delicious.
Next, we enjoyed cuts of Kobe Beef with Apricot, Soy, and Mirin served on wooden skewers as our Satay selection. This lightly-seasoned dish was cooked just right, recommended medium-rare for maximum tenderness and succulence.
For our Cold & Hot selection, we had the Crispy Rock Shrimp with Pickled Radish, Yuzu, and Chili Aioli. Though it didn’t come with the dish, I would highly recommend ordering a side of plain, steamed white rice. The mix of soft and crispy textures and hot and cold temperatures created the perfect juxtaposition to highlight the flavor of the entrée itself. This was by far my favorite dish of the night, a must for any Sampan visitor!
Next, we ordered the Beef Short Rib, a personal recommendation from the chef. The meat in this dish was cooked to perfection, yielding at its prodding. This delicious protein was complemented with traditional Lo Mein, Yu Choy, and Panko.
As our side, we ordered the Shrimp Pad Thai. The shrimp in this dish couldn’t compare to the earlier Rock Shrimp we enjoyed, but the Tofu, Egg, and Peanut accents infused with this staple Thai dish made it well worth ordering. I would recommend this dish for anyone seeking to add more traditional Asian options to their Sampan experience.
To end the dinner portion, we enjoyed a Soy-glazed Chilean Sea Bass in Cauliflower Puree with a side of Long Bean Salad. By the close of our dinner, this probably wasn’t the best choice. The fish, though cooked just right and definitely fresh, wasn’t the exciting dish needed to bounce back from the conventional Shrimp Pad Thai. I would recommend ending with the Scallop Lo Mein with Lobster Cream and Edamame instead.
Finally, the delectable desserts consisted of house-made soft serve in fun, playful flavors like Kit Kat and Lucky Charms, throwbacks to our favorite childhood munchies. The familiar and unpretentious mini ice cream cones felt refreshing after such intricate and relatively exotic entrée choices.
Overall, if you don’t mind audio clips playing in the bathrooms and know how to navigate the menu, Sampan definitely has many exceptional dishes that are well worth the trip!
Rachel Dinh
SAS ‘17