The Ultimate Duel: McCann vs Morris at the Sommelier Smackdown

At an intimate room in the Wine School of Philadelphia, cluttered wine-filled shelves loomed behind the contestants as they prepared for the impending fight. Shuffling over the colorful Persian-inspired rugs, guests eagerly took their seats at wooden tables and benches, waiting for the brawl to begin. No one quite knew what to expect. Not even the sommeliers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seated at the bench near the door, Davio’s own sommelier Kevin McCann exuded a quiet serenity. Dressed in a suit jacket with a light-blue collared shirt, red tie, and black slacks, McCann looked professional and ready to wipe out the competition. Indeed, as sommelier to Davio’s, a Northern Italian steakhouse near Rittenhouse, McCann recommends wine pairings late into the evening–an indication of his incredible stamina.

Opponent Zach Morris also seemed prime for the fight.  As the education director for the Wine School of Philadelphia, Morris regularly teaches wine and beer classes, which no doubt keep his palate and pairing skills above par.  As a graduate of Penn, where he double majored in anthropology and organic chemistry, Morris certainly has the training to withstand the tremendous pressure and stress of this epic challenge. He confidently took center stage, conversing with the spectator judges. Sporting a clean white shirt and brown shoes accented with neon blue shoelaces, Morris conveyed a slight air of mischief and rebellion—quite the opposite of McCann’s pensive appearance.

The Challenge: To replicate the consumer experience and create the best food and wine pairing possible.
A few days before the Sommelier Smackdown, Keith Wallace, founder of the Wine School and emcee and chef of the competition, gave each of the sommeliers a menu (see below) and a budget of $60. The contestants then had to buy four rounds of wine that would pair well with the Southeast Asian cuisine, a notoriously difficult task. The sommeliers had a sparse budget and scant idea of the evening’s food, making their task akin to that of selecting wine for a BYO. And, just as your table would judge you for a BYO selection, the guests were to judge the sommeliers for theirs—circling their favored wine selection on the menu for each round. At the end of the meal, the votes would be tallied by the impartial Wallace (“He hates me,” chuckled Morris in order to alleviate any fears of Wine School associated favoritism) and the winner declared. “If a tie happens,” exclaimed Morris, “then it’s a knife fight!”

A few minutes before the start of the Smackdown, Keith Wallace, dressed in solid black, swept into the room and greeted the contestants. The three wine connoisseurs exchanged hushed words, McCann and Morris separated to their corners to retrieve their first bottle, and Wallace left the room. Before presenting, each of the sommeliers enjoined the guests to focus on the pairing rather than the individual wine. And with that, the contest had officially begun. Morris chose spot one, McCann–spot two.

Round One: Daringly Spicy and Sweet
Clad in black, the waiters brought out the first course—a Southeast Asian fruit and chilies salad that played with balancing sweet, spicy, and salty flavors. Especially interested in how the acidity of the fruit salad causes the mouth to salivate, Morris chose a sparkling wine from Northern Portugal. He asked the judges to consider carefully how the flavors progressed with each sip of wine and bite of salad. On the other end, McCann selected a sweet Riesling from Washington State, a wine which he hoped would complement the surprisingly spicy taste of the salad.

Although the winners of each round were kept under wraps, Morris seemed to have the edge for this pairing. Guests felt that his wine engaged with the flavors of the dish, without overpowering any of them, while McCann’s wine left a slightly acidic aftertaste.

Round Two: A Devilish Dish
The next round, composed of homemade kimchi and miso soup, not only challenged the sommeliers but also the chef. An infamously painstaking dish to prepare, kimchi comes in a variety of flavors; it’s roughly the equivalent of asking someone to pair a wine with “cheese.” Miso soup, on the other hand, tends to be rich and savory, warming the throat with an almost carrot-like flavor.  Unsure if the kimchi would be sour or spicy, Morris chose to pair the dish with a traditional Asian drink: sake—a Japanese beer fermented with rice. Although sake tends to have a high alcohol content, Morris asserted that his selection was tropical, fruity, gentle, and pretty—nothing to be scared of. McCann chose a nice, sparkling wine to pair with the kimchi and soup, a wine that seemed to be more well-received than Morris’ exotic choice.

As the wine flowed more easily and the chatter grew louder, Keith Wallace ushered special guest Barbara into the room, a thrilled Wine School student who had just made her first vintage, which she coined “fairytale rosé.” A burst of applause rang out for the delighted Barbara as she graciously displayed her wine to the room.

Round Three: It’s Hoagie Time
After washing away the excess wine (well, mainly sake) from round two, waiters spun out of the doors to deliver a flavorful Southeast Asian hoagie—banh mi with lemongrass and chicken. Served on a fresh baguette (“Banh mi” translates to baguette), the lemongrass smoothly interacted with the tender chicken to create a juicy and satisfying sandwich. Excited to present his choice, McCann quickly announced that he would be serving a light beer with the sandwich. “Yes, sommeliers know about beer, too,” he grinned as he explained that his blue-collar roots always convinced him to pair a sandwich with beer. “It’s just satisfying.” Indeed, it seemed that the guests thought the same.

Given Morris’ decision to use beer in round three, it seemed likely he would lead with it again.  However, his choice this time could not have been more different.  For this pairing, he offered a fruity and fuller sparkling wine–noting that the bubbles would interact with the juicy texture of the sandwich. The round appeared to be a draw as guests delightfully finished each glass. Suddenly, however, McCann revealed his secret weapon: a red wine bursting with fresh red berry flavors. The rich strawberry scent of the wine filled the air as he poured glass after glass–claiming that the wine was meant to be a substitute for anyone who had a strong aversion to beer. As no one did, the red wine became a delightful treat for the guests, pushing McCanns’ selections to the forefront.

Round Four: Rosé versus Rosé
The final round (or, penultimate if a tie–remember, it’s a knife fight!) asked the sommeliers to pair wine with fresh dumplings. Plated in a clean, diagonal line, the petite dumplings erupted with a savory pork and cooling cucumber filling. The fresh acidity of the dish convinced each of the sommeliers to pair it with a rosé. The almost identical flavors of the wine caused each guest to alternate sips in an attempt to discern which they preferred. Some guests even asked for seconds and thirds. After careful consideration, it seemed as though Zach’s choice left a slight stinging aftertaste whereas Kevin’s wine tasted smooth throughout.

Since neither sommelier could knock out their opponent, a lively ambience filled the room as guests excitedly asked their neighbors which sommelier they thought would take the championship. The sommeliers lightheartedly teased the other’s selections, and McCann shouted out a shameless plug to the spectators–“BYO at Davio’s on Sunday nights!” As Keith Wallace tallied the votes, guests asked for the contact information for different wineries–which the sommeliers happily provided. McCann even made a phone call to a friend for a guest interested in purchasing his wine.

Wallace reentered the room and humorously delayed the result, building anticipation. The sommeliers nervously smiled at one another and the room. Wallace declared that the vote was close. So close, in fact, that the winner stole the show by only one vote. “It’s Kevin!” proclaimed Wallace as guests clapped, and the pair shook one another’s hands. Guests left their seats to congratulate the sommeliers on a job well done and to chat with them about their careers.

Who should go?: A lively, entertaining, and informative night, the Sommelier Smackdown is perfect for anyone in the over-21 crowd. If you’re interested in learning about pairing wine with food (cheap, boxed wine doesn’t always make the best BYO selection) or understanding the technique to tasting wine, the Smackdown is a great time to do so. The event also satisfies the itch for competition and heckling, while providing a delicious meal and the opportunity to try several different wines (and occasionally, other beverages). Be sure to consider the exciting experience for your next date, “downtown” with a group of friends, or classy evening with your parents. It’s a splurge ($74.98 per person)–but, it’s worth it!

For more information about upcoming Smackdowns, as well as other interesting classes and events offered at the Wine School of Philadelphia, please visit the website.

The next Sommelier Smackdown will take place on Wednesday, July 31st from 7:30 to 9:30 pm.  Tickets can be purchased here.

–Katie Behrman