Taste of the Nation 2014: Beef Tartare to Ice Cream Bar
On Sunday, April 27, 2014, Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation 2014 brought together Philadelphia’s top chefs and mixologists who donated their time, talent, and passion to end childhood hunger in America. The event, which situated itself inside the grand rooms of Hotel Monaco, was chaired by Chef Chair David Katz, Honorary Chair Greg Vernick, and Mixology Chair Phoebe Esmon.
Guests munched and sipped their way through a bounty of culinary delights, select wines, specialty cocktails, and premium beers.
The event this year was bigger and better than ever, split into three different sections: the brightly-lit upstairs section featuring a silent auction along the wall, the intimate and warm downstairs section, and the classy Celebrity Cruise lounge awash in blue and purple hues.
While everyone present–chefs, mixologists, and guests alike–was there to celebrate Philadelphia’s incredible food scene and raise awareness for a meaningful cause, the big competition of the night was the Creekstone Beef Tartare Smackdown. A few select restaurants submitted their own interpretation of beef tartare.
Chef Bobby Surdam of the Red Owl Tavern served a Beef Tartare with Caper Viniagrette, Herbed Marrow Butter, Cured Egg, and Toast Points. It was succulent, flavorful, and slightly salty. Although it didn’t win, it was our favorite of the bunch.
As the second contender for the Creekstone Beef Tartare Smackdown, Chef Scott Schroeder of South Philadelphia Tap Room offered a Cheesesteak Tartare. It definitely won points of creativity: we loved the creamy, pungent cheese smeared across the bread’s surface.
Townsend, headed by Chef Townsend Wentz, hasn’t even opened yet, but held its own against well-established competitors. They served a Beer Tartare with Bone Marrow Tartine and Cressonette.
Pennsylvania 6, with Chef Marc Plessis, offered the most beautifully plated Beef Tartare, with Roasted Red Peppers, Charred Scallions, Avocado, Pickled Cucumber, Spicy Aioli, and a Sourdough crisp.
The winning submission? Townsend took home the big check!
Twisted Tail featured a swordfish tartare with blood orange vinaigrette. This was one of the highlights of the night. In comparison to tuna, the swordfish was satisfyingly meaty, but the tangy vinaigrette kept it refreshing and light.
The Pea Veloute with Almond, Rhubarb, and Grape by Chef Christopher Kearse of Will BYOB had a striking green color. The almond, rhubarb, and grapes kept the palate from being overwhelmed with a pea flavor. Crisp and light, this would be a perfect addition to a summertime lunch.
Chef Justin Bogle of Avance crafted a pine smoked scallop with green strawberry rhubarb. Although aesthetically pleasing, it was a little difficult to get all the flavors and textures in a single bite.
The Avenue Delicatessen, lead by Chef Laura Frangiosa, served baccala kreplach with pistachio parsley ramp pesto. The pesto was especially outstanding in this comforting, hearty dish, elevating the triangular dumplings filled with salt cod.
Paradiso offered Grappa Cured Salmon with crème fraîche on toasted focaccia, as well as gently folded Gyoza Dumplings. The tenderness of the salmon contrasted the crispness of the toast for a satisfying bite.
Chef Plescha Brothers of Charcoal BYOB served Pasta with XO Bolognese. Taking the traditional bolognese, he added shrimp and a tuna crumble on top, as well as fresh grated parmesan cheese. The fishy taste was unexpected yet enjoyable.
Bar Ferdinand, with its chef Aila DeVowe, offered Hamachi Crudo with Cucumber and Chili Oil. The gently marinated slice of fish melted on the tongue, perked up by the fresh vegetables accompanying it.
Vincent Stipo of Vernick Food & Drink served up Deerstalker Punch, mixing Dad’s Hat Rye, Chamomile, Honeysuckle, Grapefruit Juice, Orange bitters, and Sparkling Apple Cider. The drink was notably strong with pleasant fruity undertones.
Chef Joel Mazigian of MilkBoy offered Cajun Hot Links with Cornbread, Bacon, and Smoked Pepper Jam. Unfortunately, the hot links were served to us cold, and the cornbread was crumbly and dry. However, the smoked pepper jam was delicious.
Alla Spina, with Chef Pat Szoke, featured Chicken Liver Crostini with Preserved Fruit. The mousse-like liver, coupled with the crunchy crostini and sweet and tangy fruit, made for a surprisingly pleasant combination.
The Smoked Pork Cheek Taco with house-made Kimchi, Ginger Cabbage Slaw, & Crispy Shallots by Taco Mondo food truck was pleasantly unique. The strong ginger flavor deviated from traditional tacos, but worked well with the crunchy shallows and tender pork cheek.
Brauhaus Schmitz’s Broccoli Rabe Salad with Smoked Shiitake Mushrooms, by Chef Jeremy Nolan, had an enjoyable contrast of textures, with smooth cheese, crunchy broccoli rabe, and succulent mushrooms.This would work well as a savory wintry salad.
High Street on Market, with Chef Eli Kulp, offered a Shaved Pork Belly. The meat was tender, and the mustard served as an excellent compliment.
Square 1682, with Chef Caitlin Mateo, offered a Tuna Ceviche with Habenero Aioli. It was juicy and refreshing, with a mild kick from the habenero.
Chef John Cichon of Lacroix at the Rittenhouse created asparagus wrapped in mozzarella con bottarga. Although the presentation was beautiful, the dish’s flavor was light and unoffensive to palates. We’d love to see this dish alongside a hearty main course.
Peter Serpico and his eponymous restaurant challenged palates with Sliced Pig Head, a surprisingly silky cut complemented with burnt onion mustard and mustard greens.
Vernick Food + Drink, with Honorary Chef Chair Gregory Vernick, plated a Pastrami Salad. It involved a bagel chip with pastrami and melted cheese on top. The dish was a one-bite knockout with its comforting savory/salty flavors.
The food truck known as the Cherry Bomb Bus offered a Braised Leek and Charred Eggplant Terrine with Smoked Ricotta and Morita Chili Oil Pearls. Jennifer Zavala managed to create a complex blend of textures: the stunning chili oil pearls resembling glistening spheres of fish roe were especially impressive.
Varga Bar, with Chef Evan Turney, produced one of our favorite dishes of the night. He offered three different kinds of breakfast cereal ice cream: Fruity Pebbles, Cocoa Puffs, and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. Although the ice cream melted fast, each flavor captured the essence of its beloved ice cream, and we found ourself returning multiple times for these nostalgic creations.
Chef John Strain of Valanni Social featured Spicy Pulled Chicken Empanadas. These were one of our favorite savory dishes- crispy on the outside, soft and tender on the inside, with just the right amount of kick.
Gretchen Fantini of SweetBox Cupcakes served her signature desserts with inventive flavors: Chocolate Peanut Butter, Chocolate Love Stout, Vegan Chocolate Ganache, and Bacon Maple Pancake. The cupcakes were outstanding- all were moist, rich, and delectable.
What most drew our attention, though, was her Caramelized Prosciutto Di Parma Rice Krispy Treats. These were nothing like the cloyingly sweet blocks packaged in the shiny blue and silver wrappers; the delicate sweetness interplaying with the gentle savoriness in Fantini’s version brought our taste buds to new territories.
Shake Shack came out with a surprisingly inventive, Asian-inspired flavor of frozen custard: black sesame citrus. The zippiness of the citrus perked up the smooth black sesame base, while the fortune cookie pieces added a welcome crunch.
Devil’s Den, with Chef Paul Trowbridge, served a Duck Confit and Potato dish with Garlic Aioli. It was creamy and soft, and the pungent, tangy garlic aioli kept our palates entertained. This comforting dish was also one of our favorite savory ones.
Bistrot La Minette’s Potage St. Germain by Chef Kenneth Bush was absolutely beautiful in color. Challenging the other fresh pea soup in the room, it was neat to see the two restaurants’ unique interpretations of peas at their purest.
We barely had an appetite left at this point, but felt obligated to try Buddakan’s tuna tartare spring roll, and were glad we did. It was a creative twist on traditional tuna tartare, and each bite was a contrast of soft tuna and a crunchy crust.
Penn Appétit’s Picks:
Savory: Twisted Tail’s Swordfish Tartare, The Avenue Delicatessen’s Baccala Kreplach, Valanni Social’s Spicy Pulled Chicken Empanadas, Devil’s Den’s Duck Confit and Potato, Red Owl Tavern’s Beef Tartare
Sweet: Varga Bar’s Breakfast Ice Creams, Shake Shack’s Black Sesame Citrus Frozen Custard, Sweetbox’s Vegan Chocolate Ganache Cupcake and Caramelized Proscuitto de Parma Rice Crispy Treats
— Nicole Woon and Farrel Levenson